By Mary Carpenter • Photos by Jessica McCafferty
A farm-to-table restaurant features ingredients sourced directly from growers. There is no legal definition of the operation so restaurateurs may call themselves farm-to-table whether they purchase a few or most of their ingredients from local producers.
For this issue of Strictly Business devoted to Food we went in search of the area’s most authentic farm-to-table operation. We asked colleagues and friends for recommendations; we checked menus on line. After much research and discussion, we made our choice — the Farmhouse Pantry: A Bakery, Café and Farm Store in Saranac, New York!!! The Pantry offers a unique experience — an out-of-the-way location, a rustic cozy atmosphere and an extensive menu featuring both traditional and vegan/vegetarian fare. To learn more, and sample the food we had heard so much about, I sat down recently with owner, manager and, as he describes himself, “chief cook and bottle washer” Josh Vaillancourt.
The small community of Sheldon, Vermont where Vaillancourt grew up is likely responsible for his love and respect for farming. But before he was ready to fully embrace it as his life’s work, he studied philosophy at St. Michael’s College in Colchester, Vermont where he met his wife, Sarah. He then went on to major in Religious Studies at Brown University in Providence, Rhode Island. College jobs, as a short order and line cook, gave him the skills to move up to high end eateries. “I enjoy cooking. I found my place in the kitchen,” he observed.
In 2008, when Vaillancourt finished his Ph.D. program, he found himself in an economy that was tanking. “By then Sarah and I were married and had two small children,” he explained. “There weren’t many jobs available in academia and those that were, offered short term appointments — two years here, two years there. That would not have offered the stability I wanted for my family.”
After careful consideration, the Vaillancourts decided to return to their roots in Vermont. At first, Josh worked his in-laws 100 cow farm, but their eyes were on a larger plan for the future. “Land in Vermont was too expensive for us to consider a farm of our own there, so we started looking here in northern New York,” he said. “We found land at a third less in this area.”
Acreage on the Chazy Lake Road in Saranac was just what the couple was looking for. They started their farm — Woven Meadows —with one cow and 100 chickens. Their plan was to practice grass-based pasturing of cows, and raise free-range chickens, turkeys, and organic fed pasteurized pork. While developing the farm, they worked the Farmer’s Markets in the area, offering baked goods and local products, all the while building a following and developing contacts with other small producers.
And then they found a restaurant just outside the village of Saranac and the idea of a farm-to-table operation took flight. The Farmhouse Pantry opened in 2015 providing from-scratch breads, baked goods and coffee drinks. A month later Vaillancourt added soups and then salads and sandwiches. “The operation just took off,” he observed with a satisfied smile. Customers asked for more and soon he was offering breakfast and dinner specials.
The regional contacts Vaillancourt made at Farmer’s Markets years ago provide the vegetables, eggs, meats, cheeses, syrups, and honey he needs for his authentic farm-to-table offerings. Virtually everything served at the Pantry is made in-house, by hand with organic ingredients including their famous breads – sour dough and multi-grain wheat, ciabatta and burger buns. For a special treat, stop by in mid-afternoon when the breads are fresh out to the oven — the aroma is amazing — and take a loaf or two home with you.
Another exceptional feature at the Farmhouse Pantry are its special drinks that include house-roasted coffee, fair-trade teas, their own spiced chai, brewed espresso, latte and cappuccino drinks, and organic fruit smoothies. House sodas are made with their homemade flavor syrups. In addition, you will find a diverse selection of regional draft beers, organic wines, hard ciders, and bottled beers.
No meal is complete without a sweet treat and the Pantry has much to offer in that regard: pies, cakes, cheesecakes, bread puddings, Baklava, macaroons, cookies, muffins, and cinnamon rolls are ready to enjoy in the dining room or to take home to share with family.
I asked Vaillancourt about his most popular offerings. “I’d have to say it is our grass-fed beef burgers – classic, cheddar-mushroom, BBQ pepper onion, and our Reuben. We also offer a ham Reuben sandwich which people really like and our hash is always in demand.” If you would like to try something a little different, select their apple-walnut cheddar melt or the sesame-crusted tofu salad. Delicious!!
As our conversation wound down, I asked Vaillancourt about their future plans. After an extended silence he responded, “I don’t have a huge game plan right now. We’ve gotten where we are on stubborn hope. We’re where we want to be. Through our farming activities, we strive for ecological and social sustainability. We have a holistic perspective, seeing all aspects of the farm as interconnected, interrelated with the wider community and environment. Everything is woven together.”
The Farmhouse Pantry and Woven Meadows are thriving — proof positive of Josh and Sarah Vaillancourt’s wisdom and a tribute to their hard work.
Farmhouse Pantry
3223 State Route 3
Saranac, New York 12981
518-293-5174
Comments